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I didn’t drink them all, but let’s just say no drink went to waste. |
A close, close-up of Big Ben with my 20x zoom digital camera. |
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Sitting in solidarity to my animal brethren. |
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I didn’t drink them all, but let’s just say no drink went to waste. |
A close, close-up of Big Ben with my 20x zoom digital camera. |
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Sitting in solidarity to my animal brethren. |
Another train, another city. We woke up early to catch our train, thinking that the customs we passed through for our train to Paris from London, would also require additional time. It didn’t, so we quickly became acquainted with our new favorite breakfast-on-the-go chain: Pret A Manger. Sorry Dunkin. Once we were fueled and caffeinated, we boarded the train to…sleep for the hour and a half train ride to Brussels.
Now, I had been to Paris before, about 12 years ago, but now we were entering new territory with Brussels. Not that I was scared of going to a new city. In reality, I enjoy it. Rather, I came to Paris with ideas on where things are and how to get around, and for Brussels, I didn’t know much at all. This wasn’t a problem for one big reason: Brussels isn’t that big.
The family arrived at the hotel to drop our things off before check-in, and then we were off. My strategy for travel is to get all of the site seeing out of the way early and then spend your remaining time enjoying the city. At a local cafe, we pulled up a walking tour app and mapped out where to go. We started with my personal favorite building: the city hall, Hotel de Ville. In a long plaza surrounded by beautiful buildings that I would say are typical of European cities, and smack in the middle is this gothic building that has a short wing. Rumor has it that the architect wanted to make the two wings even, but that would require closing a popular street and through way. The town preferred to keep the street and the architect was ridiculed for the asymmetry of the cities most important building. Immediately opposite of the town hall is a building called the King’s House which was erected for the Spanish to stay at and keep an eye on the people when they were under Spanish rule. The Belgians were not very fond of Spain, for good reason, but they weren’t convincing enough during our trip to shift my allegiances. Please read blog posts below for more detail.
From there, we walked down a road to the Stock Exchange, La Bourse. This landmark was very important as it was on the same street as our hotel. The building itself is very impressive, looking like a large bank. It didn’t function as a bank nor as a stock exchange as the stock exchange relocated. It was used now as a glimpse through history and also a beer garden. I knew that Belgian and I would get along since they seem to love beer possibly more than I do.
We then went to possibly the most loved landmark: Manneken Pis. Get your mind out of the gutter, pis can mean something different in a different language. In this language, however, it means what you think it means. This statue depicts a boy peeing into a fountain. The mythos is that when Brussels was being attacked, a child foiled the invading armies attack by peeing on a fuse. Whatever the story, the child is immortalized with what was possibly the most crowded attraction that we went to. He also dons many outfits and today he was not wearing his birthday suit. He was wearing a Santa hat and shirt with a bib number affixed to it. There are also other peeing statues including a girl, Jeanneken Pis, and a dog, Het Zinneke. These have no relation to the original statue and were created much after. We still checked them off of our list.
Continuing to piss the day away, we walked to Place Sainte-Catherine. Now, the Bourse had a small Christmas market, but the one in this square was much bigger and included a steampunk carousel that the children, and myself if I’m being honest, ate up. I had never seen a ride like that and was tempted to hop in line myself.
Just a stone’s throw away was by far the biggest market we saw was in the plaza Marche aux Poissons, the Fish Market. We didn’t end up spending much time as it was time for us to go on our Chocolate Tour.
For our mom’s birthday, we gifted her the experience of a chocolate tour of Brussels best and well known chocolate shops. Our tour guide, Nina, was amazing. She first started with a brief history of Brussels and explained why we had been seeing street signs in both French and Dutch. The explanation was simple, given the location, and the history of different peoples passing through Belgium, the country has two official languages: French and Dutch. We had just used rudimentary French in Paris, so when I conversed with locals, I used French. Had we come from the Netherlands, maybe we would’ve spoken Dutch.
The tour continued, we were located in what I can describe as a covered street lined by shops, or, in other words, a mall. Here in Las Galerias Royales Saint-Hubert, there were three chocolate shops we were pursuing. We started at Leonidas, a large Belgian brand with sweet chocolate, and then went to Neuburger who created his chocolates to make bitter medicines more palatable. The last stop here was to Mary’s, a rare female run chocolate chain with delicious chocolate and beautiful boxes for these treats. Mary’s chocolate was so renowned that she was the official chocolatier to the king, and I understand because the chocolate was delicious. The three shops in this mall were typical chocolates and the last two shops we were to see were more experimental. These shops definitely did not have bad chocolate, but definitely more unique ways to create chocolates that required infusing and playing around with the bitterness.
The phases of chocolate. |
All in all, the tour was a great way to get acquainted with the city. We regrouped at the hotel where some rested and others walked around the city before dinner. Our reservation was actually close to where the chocolate tour started, so we knew how to get there and budgeted enough time. When we left the hotel, there was a lot of people and a lot of commotion. Upon further inspection, there was a barrier on the sidewalk and we couldn’t cross in the direction we needed to go to for dinner. Once I saw a group of people crossing, I took the chance expecting my family to be behind me. I was admonished by a cop and my family had stayed on the other side. At this point, there was no visible way to cross and we were separated without cellular data to contact each other. We had the same destination, so I made my way there and two minutes after I arrived, the rest of the family joined me. It turned out that the outfit of Manneken Pis was informing us that the day after Christmas road race was occurring, which explained the barriers.
After dinner, all of the commotion had ended and we decided to take our parents sneakily to the Gran Place for 10:00 PM. Why? Well, when Jared and Emma had went on their own after the chocolate tour, they discovered that every hour, the city of Brussels performs a light show that has projections on the city hall and the exterior lights on the other buildings changed colors and flickered rhythmically. It was amazing. The current theme was of Native American art and it really came alive against the city hall. It was a beautiful way to conclude our first day.
City hall covered in flowers and the surrounding buildings complementing. |
The agenda for day two was simple: cover the landmarks that were a little further out, eat waffles, and beer. These landmarks were quick and included the EU Parliament, the Royal Palace, and Mont des Artes. It was quick to do and we found ourselves at the first stop of our brewery crawl that Emma created: Delirium Tremens. Now, I had seen their logo throughout Europe, but I had no clue how globally recognized they were nor that they had made an alley in Brussels into a brewery, tequileria, cafe, and absinthe house. We were there for beers, so between Emma, Spencer, and myself, we split a 10 beer flight. Also, because it was cheap and, you know, when in Brussels, we also did an absinthe shot. The shot went down like swallowing fire, but the beers were overall good. Some expiremental ones missed the boat, but one of my favorites being the cactus beer. The beer wasn’t the only cool thing, each building was so neat. The cafe in the basement where we set up base had what looked like bottle caps the size of frisbees decorating the ceiling and posters of different beers adorning the walls. I probably could have stayed all day there, but knowing how crowded it gets, we went to our second destination.
This is our face post absinthe shot. |
Our second stop was a waffle house. I just needed to have a Belgian waffle in Belgium. Although the line was long due to one of the waffle irons being out of commission, it was certainly worth the wait for the strawberry and ice cream waffle I got. Then the beer tour continued. We went to two more bars before getting the recommendation to go to La Machine, a steampunk bar with amazing drinks. They even had a mechanical dragon on the ceiling. We scooted from here to the final brewery, Brasserie Surrealiste, for a beer in a beautiful venue. We then went to dinner: underneath the Gran Place in a quaint, read: small, restaurant. Our parents had trouble finding the place, but they made it there eventually.
And so concludes our two day sprint through Brussels. Now, off to London!
Wow, this seat hasn’t been sat in in a while. Let me roll it back and forth a few times. Ah, this is the familiar chair I used to write these blog posts in. I can’t believe I’m back! I’ll thank Emma and mum for bringing up journaling on our trip. I didn’t have the means to write this while on the trip, so after being back for a week, I thought that I would journal about the family’s trip to Europe (and former EU-nations)! Unfortunately, “family” does not include my new husband as he had to work, but we still endeavored into the city of love with 3 full couples as tribute, and me, the 7th wheel.
Our story starts before even getting onto a plane. Emma and I had planned the trip and in order to maximize time, we scheduled a train right after we landed in London to Paris. At the time, this seemed like a good idea, but as the trip approached, I got increasingly nervous that something would happen and we’d miss the train and start our trip off to a poor start. I wasn’t able to sleep on the flight because of it, which is unlike me because I can fall asleep anywhere. My fears were unfounded and we booked it from the plane, through customs, where he had to collect our forced-checked bags, and then made it on the Tube to St. Pancras where we boarded the famous Eurostar to dive beneath the English Channel. I would say that it was super cool, but this is where I fell asleep. It was a smooth ride from London to Paris.
Now, our original plan, to maximize time, was to go from Gare du Nord station to a suitcase drop off location right next to the Louvre so we could see the museum on our first day since we got to Paris around 1pm. The poor start that I feared did not occur, but another fear that we should have been aware of did darken our door. In trying to get from Gare du Nord to the Louvre, we used Paris’ metro system as it is quick and affordable. What we didn’t anticipate was that a family of 7 with their suitcases, jet lagged hobbling around the station made us perfect marks for pickpocketers. Our train came and a rush of people boarded. My instincts from traveling and being a commuter is to push all the way in away from the doors, so that’s where I went with three of our group. The three that remained were my mom, dad, and sister, who stayed by the doors. The two groups were now separated by a group of people where we could see them but couldn’t talk to them. All of a sudden, I hear Emma yell, “I’ve got your suitcase!” Which alerted everyone with me that something was going on. We couldn’t get towards my family so we watched as onlookers, hearing my dad yell, then seeing him smile and shake a guy’s hand. At the next stop they got off, and we only had a few more stops to go. Once we got to the Louvre stop, we disembark and Emma turns to us, “Dad got his wallet stolen.”
Apparently, many distractions were aimed at my dad: they were playing with his suitcase, they spilled soda on him, they apologized and shook his hand, and then got off at the next station. In all of the commotion, my dad’s wallet was stolen. Thankfully, he had stored his phone and passport separately. All in all, they got 50 € and tried to put $7,000 of expenses on the credit cards, which were immediately flagged by the credit companies who froze the cards. A bumpy start to the trip, but it definitely could have been worse. Anyways, this is why, instead of heading to the Louvre on the first day, we went straight to the AirBNB.
Our first night included a delicious dinner at the AirBNB’s recommendation and a walk around the Eiffel Tower and the Christmas Market. We pulled names for Secret Santa and these Christmas Markets, as there were markets in each of the three cities, served as great places to get presents. We pulled names on day one and were going to give the gifts on the last day of our trip.
Day two was an aggressive day from the get go. We had to accomplish two major sites because they both would be closed the following day, Christmas. You think they would keep them open for all of the tourists, and there were so many of us, but alas, we had to fit them both in the same day. These two sites were Versailles, a 30 min train out of the city, and The Louvre, another reason we had hoped to include it in our first day. Nevertheless, we were determined. We woke up early and went west to Versailles, walking around the gardens before our ticketed time to enter the palace. Now, I had been to Versailles when I was in Paris 12 years prior, but it still amazed me at the grandiosity of the rooms and the art. The hall of mirrors lived up to my memory as well, but some of the best views were the ceilings. Each room had a Greek god looking down on you from above. I’m still in awe at the luxury of it and understand why the French rose up against the monarchs.
We didn’t give enough time for rest and took the train back but going past our stop and continued on towards the Louvre. Traveling pro tip: there are ticketed times slots for the Louvre. They sell out and can be inconvenient if you don’t know what time you’re going to get there after seeing Versailles. There’s also a line for those that just show up. This line is often shorter and you can get in with the ticketed holders. Although not guaranteed, I can say that our experience had us waiting about half an hour and then we were in! The Louvre was our oyster.
I had not visited the Louvre before, so I was eager to see all of the must-sees. We beelined for the Mona Lisa, knowing that we wouldn’t stand in line, but to see it from afar was good enough. Then we moseyed around the massive building. Some of the highlights included sarcophaguses (stolen), the Crown Jewels (not stolen), and Hammurabi's Code (stolen). The Code was interesting because it was something we’ve been taught since middle school as being the oldest evidence of written law. It even includes an early version of innocent until proven guilty. After walking both buildings, we were exhausted and headed back to the AirBNB to rest before dinner. All in all, we walked over 28,000 steps and saw two of the best monuments of Paris.
The painting that hangs opposite the Mona Lisa. Pretty impressive, right? |
Despite the amount of steps, we still decided to go out for a nice drink at a rooftop bar near the AirBNB. Our AirBNB was close to the Eiffel Tower and, because of the hotel’s location, the 11th floor overlooked the Eiffel Tower. Pretty cool! We took the elevator and entered the bar. On our way in, we saw a sign that had 230€, but didn’t take too much notice, that is, until we ordered. The drinks were slightly expensive, but we could see the Eiffel Tower, so it justified the price. That’s what started freaking us out, if the drink prices were reasonable, could that 230€ have been the cover or a minimum? Well, if that was the case, we were going to get our money’s worth. We went twice out on the balcony to get the photos of the Eiffel Tower that we had paid for. We also ordered a second drink, but because of the poor service, instead of the pour service, we didn’t end up getting it. Nervously, we asked for the check, and to our surprise, we paid only for the drinks we ordered, so a view of the Eiffel Tower for only 21€, not too shabby. It turns out that the 230€ was for VIP service, so we were spared of an expensive tab.
Honestly, that could be a 230€ view.
Just because it was Christmas Day didn’t mean that we had to sit at home with our family. I know that’s what it means normally, but we were in frickin’ Paris, so we did some site seeing. Using the public transportation, which had scarred us on our first day but had treated us well throughout, we went to the Arc de Triomphe and Sacre Coeur. I had never seen the Arc up close, and man, is it impressive with all of the detail and the sheer size of it. I was also impressed at the 12 way intersection, one of my worse nightmares. If they work like any of the rotaries in the US, there must be so many accidents with people not knowing what yield means. Sacre Coeur is also an impressive beast of its own. It sits atop a hill about 3.5 miles from the Eiffel Tower. What always strikes me is how white the building is. It is said that after rainy days, the church shines even brighter. We lucked out as it had been spitting that morning.
From Sacre Coeur, we went back towards the neighborhood we were staying at, catching the Louvre pyramid lit up at night and the Christmas Market that was right beside it. This market was packed with people that we could barely move. Once we had did one length, we exited and went back to our familiar Christmas Market. It was there that we got beer, mulled wine, and chicken shawarma. I was reminded that shawarma is so plentiful in Europe. It’s much harder to find in the US.
There was no going out on this night as we had to catch a train to Brussels early in the morning. The Ubers were ordered to pick us up at 6:30 AM, we were no longer risking the metro while carrying our suitcases. We’d learned from our mistakes.
And there were baths! |
The mosque |
Looking at Asia from the European side |
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The Turkish drink tea with every meal |
Blue Mosque |
Hagia Sofia |